Underwraps: Defining Modesty on the Runway

Last updated on: February 11, 2013 at 2:00 am by eren

Underwraps: Defining Modesty on the Runway 2013-02-10T01:02:31-04:00 eren

LOGO Patheos Explore the world's faith through different perspectives on religion and spirituality! Patheos has the views of the prevalent religions and spiritualities of the world.

Through the years MMW has had the opportunity to analyze Muslim women’s role in fashion in a variety of contexts. Some of our articles have discussed fashion in the context of in Mali, Russia and Chechnya, and a piece by Sharrae featured what is thought to be the only Muslim Model agency: Underwraps.

Underwraps is famous not only for its inclusion of hijab-wearing women, but also for its founder Nailah Lymus, featured in one of my pieces in 2011. Last week, Underwraps Model Agency made it back to the headlines through two articles; one written by Hajer Naili for womensenews.com and another one by Omar Sacirbey for the Huffington Post. While the two articles discuss Underwraps’ endeavour to bring modest clothing to Muslim and non-Muslim women while providing access to Muslim women to the modeling industry, Naili’s piece makes and interesting read as she is, herself, one of the models.

Naili’s piece does not only critique the use of female nudity to get attention (for example, she mentions Femen, which I discussed last year), but it also asserts Underwraps’ point of difference, and its emphasis on catering to modest women (Muslim or not). Yet, coverage of Underwraps in different outlets has constantly played with the “free vs. oppressed” discourse and emphasizes Muslim women’s “tendency” to be more modest and perhaps more “religious” than other women. This suggests that if they are not modest enough they risk facing backlash not only from their communities, but also from those who expect Muslim women to be “pious and modest.”

In this sense, one way of seeing Muslim fashion is as a way to allow Muslim women to bring hijabs and modesty to the runway without the aesthetical restrictions of thin and “almost-naked” models. For Naili, Underwraps brings along a variety of possibilities that enable women to be themselves and feel free in their own skin. Naili explains: “I have never believed that exposing my naked body would make me feel freer.”

When I started looking into Muslim women and fashion a couple of years ago, I celebrated the inclusion of Muslim models in the industry and the initiative of Muslim designers in coming up with different creative ideas for Muslim women. However, I have recently developed a more ambivalent relationship with the fashion industry and Muslim women involved in it.

While I believe that Muslim women should have a place in the fashion industry as designers and models, I feel unsure about what is being said about their “actual” role and the standards being endorsed. After reading Naili’s piece I kept wondering what it all meant for Muslim women like me who are, perhaps, not “as modest” as others… would they tell me to go over to Vogue because I do not comply with the “Islamic” aesthetics that they want to portray? Would I have to accept their standards of modesty in order to join the agency? Is there a place for me as a “less-modest” Muslim? What is the definition of modesty we are using here anyway?

Hajer Naili, Underwraps model via The Huffington Post

The thoughts of how Islam, modesty and piety come together on the runway became more important for me after reading a piece by Marjorie Jolles and Shira Tarrant with the title “Feminism can Decode Politics of Fashion,” where the authors do a great job in pointing out the personal challenges that fashion can bring as well as the political and philosophical questions that it raises, pointing out that “Fashion creates collective identity, but also restricts individual voice.”

So is Muslim fashion falling into the mainstream? Is “Muslim fashion” creating a collective identity that will continue to keep some of us excluded or alienated? Personally, I remain somewhat conflicted…I fear that what started as a personal celebration for Muslim women’s accomplishments on the runway will turn out to be another restrictive environment that will be no different than others in defining terms like beauty and modesty. Yet, I remain positive. I hope Muslim women in the fashion industry will broaden the industry’s horizons instead of confining them to issues of “modest clothing” for “modest girls.”

Fashion

fashion

UNDERWRAPS

Previous Post

February 8, 2013

Friday Links | February 8, 2013

Next Post

February 12, 2013 Talking with “Hip Hop Hijabis” Filmmaker Mette Reitzel

Browse Our Archives

Select a Category Advertisements Art/Theater Books/Magazines Cinema Comics/Cartoons Culture/Society Events Fashion Film Friday Links Merchandise/Commodities MMW Announcements MMW Highlights Music/Radio News Photography Politics Profile Ramadan 2012 Ramadan 2013 Ramadan 2014 Ramadan 2015 Roundtable Satire Social Media Sports Technology/Science Television Uncategorized Video Web

Select a Month November 2015 October 2015 September 2015 August 2015 July 2015 June 2015 May 2015 April 2015 March 2015 January 2015 December 2014 November 2014 October 2014 September 2014 July 2014 June 2014 May 2014 April 2014 March 2014 February 2014 January 2014 December 2013 November 2013 October 2013 September 2013 August 2013 July 2013 June 2013 May 2013 April 2013 March 2013 February 2013 January 2013 December 2012 November 2012 October 2012 September 2012 August 2012 July 2012 June 2012 May 2012 April 2012 March 2012 February 2012 January 2012 December 2011 November 2011 September 2011 August 2011 July 2011 June 2011 May 2011 April 2011 March 2011 February 2011 January 2011 December 2010 November 2010 October 2010 September 2010 August 2010 July 2010 June 2010 May 2010 April 2010 March 2010 February 2010 January 2010 December 2009 November 2009 October 2009 September 2009 August 2009 July 2009 June 2009 May 2009 April 2009 March 2009 February 2009 January 2009 December 2008 November 2008 October 2008 September 2008 August 2008 July 2008 June 2008 May 2008 April 2008 March 2008 February 2008 January 2008 December 2007 November 2007 October 2007 September 2007 August 2007

TAKE THE

Religious Wisdom Quiz

What year was the Council of Nicea?

Select your answer to see how you score.

325 AD 1054 AD 500 AD 1517 AD